Jewelry is made from many different types of metals from copper to Platinum. Many people starting out in jewelry design want to know the best metal to use in their designs. This is a question that has no easy answer. A designer must look at availability, cost, wearability, ease of use, and the luster of each type of metal before deciding on the perfect choice. The metal must be both ductile and malleable so it can be shaped in your jewelry designs.
This article will focus on the beginner designer and what metals are best for those with limited resources and tools. The most important factor for the amateur designer will always be ease of use. Hard metals require special tools to work with.
Suggestions for the beginner at jewelry design
A beginner usually has limited tools and needs to choose a metal that is relatively soft and easy to form. Gold and Silver both fit this category. A person can even use a soft metal like copper or even jewelers brass to get their first design off the drawing board and into a display case. Copper has a problem with oxidizing and staining skin and must be plated with nickel, silver, or gold. This will give the final product a great luster that will last for years.
The Wearability factor
Wearability is usually taken into account when deciding what type of jewelry you are designing. Necklaces and bracelets can be made with softer metals as they are usually protected from bumps and dings. Rings are a special case. We use our hands and fingers all day. A ring will undoubtedly be subject to bumps, scuffs and abrasions and needs to be made from harder metals. Gold is a good choice for rings because it comes in variety of purity that means it can be hard or soft. 10ct gold is about 40% pure and is a lot harder than 24ct pure gold. This variation in purity can help the amateur designer make great looking rings and still keep costs under control.
Luster or finish desired
Luster is one of the most easily controllable areas of jewelry design. An amateur can design and ring, necklace, or bracelet and use modern electroplating to give the final product a sheen that will make everyone take notice. When you set out to make your first design, we at JDRC suggest you use a cheap and readily available metal. Don’t blow your budget on the metal. Take into account the fact that you may need to try a few different variations before you get your final product. Remember to use wax or some other medium to get the design perfect before you switch to working with metals.
Exotic metals in jewelry
There are many newer exotic metals coming into the jewelry industry over the last few decades, they are becoming mainstream now and more accepted. However most are difficult to work with, metals like titanium, stainless steel are hard to work but have unique properties making them desired.
GIA Urges Return of Diamonds with Doctored Reports
GIA is urging the return of 175 diamonds for re examination due to a recent hacking attack on their data base. The two hackers appear to have operated between November of 2014 and October 2015. GIA is offering a no cost re-confirmation of any reports issued during this period of time. Again it demonstrates GIA commitment to the integrity of the diamond market. The article in the National Jeweler is a poignant reminder of the issues facing the system in the electronic age. December 01, 2015 Carlsbad, Calif.–Only 175 of the 1,042 diamonds with a grading report that was invalidated after two individuals hacked into Gemological Institute of America’s grading information database earlier this year have been returned to the lab for reexamination. To address the trade’s concerns and to emphasize the importance of all the diamonds and their reports being returned, the GIA announced last week that it is offering a no-cost confirmation service for any diamond grading report that was issued by the lab between November 2014 and October 2015. Read More…
Gemstone Buying Price and Prejudice
Choosing a Gemstone Price and Prejudice Many factors and prejudices come into play when choosing a gemstone for a jewelry design. The 4 C’s are always a factor but some other factors are at in the mix as well. Popular fashion trends can have a great affect on what color gemstones are losing or gaining popularity as accents to fashion. Many gems have funny names and this alone can make it sell less, some designers come up with new fancy sounding names for gems to make the sound more exotic and appealing to the retail customer. As always trends in color change and return to the classics over and over with some variations. There are many factors to consider when buying a new gem for hardness and fracture resistance should always be considered especially for rings and bracelets because of possible impact damage. Colors like brown have been slow to catch on but occasionally a spectacular brown diamond will appear with a name like cognac and it sells and makes a stir. Price and Prejudice For Jane Austen, matrimony was as much a financial transaction as an emotional one, with everyone trying to get the best possible bargain. Buying a gem is also the beginning of a life-long relationship and the price you pay is part of the deal. Understandably, you don’t want to pay too much. So how can you tell if you are paying the right price? First of all, don’t ask how much you should pay for a one-carat ruby. A one carat ruby can be worth ten dollars or it can be worth $10,000. Quality makes the difference. Fortunately you can see differences in quality if you look at a lot of rubies side-by-side. Better color costs more, a lot more. Better clarity costs more. Better cut may cost a little more but it is worth it! The bigger the stone, the more it is per carat. Within each variety, prices are based on these four Cs, with color as the most important factor. There is a more detailed explanation in the judging quality section. READ MORE… We at JDRC are proud affiliates of the Jewelers Resource Bureau please take a few moments to look at becoming a member.
Northwestern University jewelry design contest
Northwestern University’s FUSE program on Jewelry Design Local Jewelry Designer Creates FUSE Challenge The FUSE program at Northwestern University has touch thousands and local jewelry designer Christopher Duquet has offered a design contest to students which has become successful and is getting more and more attention. Offering jewelry design help to students that have never been interested in jewelry design prior to this incredible program. Students are finding that they can design things they never thought they would be able to do in the past. Using state of the art 3d software to print out the designs and even wear them home has sparked tremendous interest. The winner of the design contest will have their design cast in sterling silver EVANSTON, Ill. — Like many teenagers, Isabel Pietri loves wearing jewelry. But designing her own pieces? The idea had never crossed her mind. Then Pietri won a chance to work with Evanston jewelry designer Christopher Duquet through Northwestern University’s FUSE program, a series of challenges designed to get students excited about science, technology, engineering, arts/design and mathematics (STEAM). For Pietri, now a sophomore at Kelvyn Park High School in Chicago, the experience changed the way she thought about math and science and sparked a newfound interest in computer-based art. “At first my ideas were really simple, but after talking with Christopher they got better,” Pietri said in a newly released video that showcases her collaboration with Duquet. “I had no idea I could do something so technical and complicated.”Read more…
How Rihanna’s Favorite Jewelry Designer Built an Empire
How Rihanna’s Favorite Jewelry Designer Built an Empire Some designers never intended to be one. This article documents one highly successful jewelry designer’s road to the top. Jacquie Aiche began her designing career as a hobbyist and never considered that she might have a lifetimes work ahead of her for her much sought after designs. Over the years her designs took on a life of their own and eventually she returned to her design work full time, starting in her garage. She is now an “A” list designer in the celebrity world of Hollywood with clients like Miley Cyrus and Rihanna. So when you think that you can’t become a designer keep her lovely story in mind. She went from a hobbyist housewife to a top designer in the Hollywood world of fashion. This woman’s designs are becoming more and more popular with the celebrity crowd. Now not everyone becomes a famous Hollywood creator of fine jewelry, But anyone who is persistent and works to challenge themselves can have a satisfying experience in the jewelry industry. by Meghan Blalock Rihanna isn’t hurting for big designer names in her wardrobe, but when it comes to her jewelry collection, one name reigns supreme among them all: Jacquie Aiche. (The pop star’s so obsessed with Aiche’s designs that she even partnered with the designer on a line of jewelry-inspired body art earlier this year.) But RiRi is far from the only celebrity client Aiche counts as a fervent follower; Victoria’s Secret model Behati Prinsloo loves her work, as do Diane Kruger, Kylie Jenner, Miley Cyrus, and countless other stylish ladies. But like many of the career success stories we’ve chronicled here on Who What Wear, Aiche wasn’t always such a household name in the celebrity style world. READ MORE… Jewelry Designers Resource Center is proud to be affiliated with The Jewelers Resource Bureau
NY jewelry store’s diamonds weren’t stolen
NY jewelry store’s diamonds weren’t stolen In a weird twist the suspected stolen diamonds at J. Birnbach Inc in New York city were never stolen, An employee threw them out during a move from one office to another… A security guard found them in the trash and sold some to another jeweler in the same building, This mistake emphasizes the need of taking time to check all the things thrown into the trash in the jewelry and gemstone industry. This would have been a $5 million dollar loss for Birnbach and cause a great deal of anxiety for a long time to come. Since I have personally had a similar experience although not for the same value, I had in the past accidentally thrown a few pieces of jewelry away in a move I was making some years back. Gem and Jewelry safety are as important to the designer as it is to the jeweler. The mystery of how nearly $5 million in diamonds went missing from a Midtown jewelry store has been solved. As it turns out, some dimwitted workers at J. Birnbach Inc. were helping their boss move to another floor and tossed three weathered wooden boxes filled with diamonds in a heap of trash without bothering to look inside, law-enforcement sources said. But a building security guard patrolling the third floor allegedly did take a peek — and discovered the mother lode: READ MORE…
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