Jewelry is made from many different types of metals from copper to Platinum. Many people starting out in jewelry design want to know the best metal to use in their designs. This is a question that has no easy answer. A designer must look at availability, cost, wearability, ease of use, and the luster of each type of metal before deciding on the perfect choice. The metal must be both ductile and malleable so it can be shaped in your jewelry designs.
This article will focus on the beginner designer and what metals are best for those with limited resources and tools. The most important factor for the amateur designer will always be ease of use. Hard metals require special tools to work with.
Suggestions for the beginner at jewelry design
A beginner usually has limited tools and needs to choose a metal that is relatively soft and easy to form. Gold and Silver both fit this category. A person can even use a soft metal like copper or even jewelers brass to get their first design off the drawing board and into a display case. Copper has a problem with oxidizing and staining skin and must be plated with nickel, silver, or gold. This will give the final product a great luster that will last for years.
The Wearability factor
Wearability is usually taken into account when deciding what type of jewelry you are designing. Necklaces and bracelets can be made with softer metals as they are usually protected from bumps and dings. Rings are a special case. We use our hands and fingers all day. A ring will undoubtedly be subject to bumps, scuffs and abrasions and needs to be made from harder metals. Gold is a good choice for rings because it comes in variety of purity that means it can be hard or soft. 10ct gold is about 40% pure and is a lot harder than 24ct pure gold. This variation in purity can help the amateur designer make great looking rings and still keep costs under control.
Luster or finish desired
Luster is one of the most easily controllable areas of jewelry design. An amateur can design and ring, necklace, or bracelet and use modern electroplating to give the final product a sheen that will make everyone take notice. When you set out to make your first design, we at JDRC suggest you use a cheap and readily available metal. Don’t blow your budget on the metal. Take into account the fact that you may need to try a few different variations before you get your final product. Remember to use wax or some other medium to get the design perfect before you switch to working with metals.
Exotic metals in jewelry
There are many newer exotic metals coming into the jewelry industry over the last few decades, they are becoming mainstream now and more accepted. However most are difficult to work with, metals like titanium, stainless steel are hard to work but have unique properties making them desired.
New Madagascar Aquamarine Discovery
New Madagascar Aquamarine Discovery When newly sourced Aquamarine shows up at a show it is news, collectors were excited to see 5 kilos of high quality unheated show up in Tucson. These are fine quality goods coming from Madagascar few inclusions and no green or gray stones that would require heat treatment. Cut in emerald and cushion shapes for the most part collectors could pick them for the best colors. Unheated Aquamarine is rare and color this nice is as well, the prices are reasonable and interest was high. A hardness of 7.5 is very suitable for jewelry designs a beautiful color and cut with sizes 5-10cts. These particular pieces should be a big hit when the are scooped up by collectors and jewelry designers. As members of the Beryl family of gemstones they will be treasured additions to a collection, jewelry designers are also lucky to have the opportunity to pick out some quality pieces for their new design concepts. Collectors are always looking for a new hot gemstone that’s inexpensive. Ideally, everyone wants to be in o n the bottom floor of the next Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline discovery. The Brazilian Paraiba story is unique but truthfully, may only happen once in a lifetime. However, as a general rule, collectors who buy gemstones before they become popular or known, generally see pretty nice increases in price appreciation as the material dwindles. New Large Find Madagascar Aquamarine has been intermittent for years but in January, 5 kilos showed up before the Tucson Gem Show. The market now has enough material to satisfy collectors, jewelers, and high end manufacturers. Large suites are being created for major necklaces. Jewelers can now get single stones for rings and necklaces and collectors can obtain single stones or suites of the new material. Brief Gemology Aquamarine is a beryl, the same family as emerald. Aquamarine gets its color from iron. Many aqua’s are greenish blue, although the pure blues are considered the ideal. Aquamarine is 7.5 in hardness, which makes it durable for jewelry. READ MORE…
Jadeite jewellery set fetches US$3.33m at HK auction
Spectacular Icy Jade Jewelrytops auction sale A pair beautiful jadeite earrings with diamonds and designed by jewellery designer Alessio Boschi recently was sold at auction for $3.33 million dollars in a Hong Kong auction. These are exquisite in quality of gem and quality of design. December 6 auction, Tiancheng International said that a telephone bidder bought the earrings. And that also sold was a jadeite and diamond pendant with a ‘Bamboo’ motif. Natural unheated Burmese Mogok ruby and diamond pendant earrings were among the other items in this auction held December 6 2015. The entire auction saw $245,000,000HKD in total sales. Other top pieces in the event were Icy Jadeite bangle bracelets and icy lavender jadeite and diamond pendant known as Laughing Buddha, and a Jadeite and Diamond double stranded necklace. That accounts for only a few of the pieces that drew attention during the auction by Tiancheng International A set of jadeite and icy jadeite earrings, rings and pendant accented with diamonds by jewellery designer Alessio Boschi was the top performer at Tiancheng International’s Jewellery and Jadeite Autumn Auction in Hong Kong. The jewellery set generated HK$26 million (US$3.33 million), well within pre-sale estimates. It was sold to a phone bidder during the December 6 auction, Tiancheng International said in a press release. Other star lots were a pair of icy jadeite bangles and a 10.22-carat natural unheated Burmese Mogok ‘Pigeon’s Blood’ ruby and diamond ring, which both sold for HK$21.24 million (US$2.72 million); an icy lavender jadeite and diamond pendant nicknamed ‘Laughing Buddha,’ which fetched HK$18.29 million (US$2.34 million); and a double-stranded jadeite and diamond necklace, which was snapped up for HK$17.7 million (US$2.26 million). READ MORE…
Gem Market Pulse – March 2016 The Jewelry Industry Summit
Gem Market Pulse – March 2016 Gem markets continue to be volatile in many areas, the financing industry that supports the gem and jewelry industries are moving from the sector more and more. The challenges that the gem traders face are numerous and fluid. This article accents these issues facing the markets such as fair trade and new resources for bringing new goods to market. The newly offered deep rich purple garnets from exotic locations like Mozambique, Malawi, and Tanzania came around during the recent Tucson gem show. The prices were good and the quality was awesome from all I have read and heard. Amateur jewelry designers would be well served to pay attention to new colors and sources for quality colored stones, they often have a buzz attached to them and can be sold much quicker when mounted in a unique setting. Another attraction is that the value can rise quickly and popularity can soar, this all adds to the buzz that a designer can transfer to their new designs following trendy gem sales. The Jewelry Industry Summit The goal is to reach consensus on a shared vision for responsible sourcing that works for all sectors of the industry – while meeting consumer demand for ethical products…featured gem Purple Garnet The gem and jewelry business has a large, multifaceted structure that functions at different levels often without any communications between participants from the various sectors. These sectors include but are not limited to mining, cutting, jewelry manufacturing, wholesale and retail. They can operate quite differently between diamond and colored stones industries. Both the colored stone and diamond sectors are dependent on a direct relationship with investors and banks and yet traditional lenders having been moving away from the gem and jewelry trade to develop business in other industries. Additional influential factors affecting the gem trade are government bodies, consumer rights groups and NGO’s. An industry wide meeting of representatives from all sectors of the gem and jewelry trade to address the increasing number of issues that currently facing the gem trade is overdue. Fortunately, a group of gem and jewelry professionals has taken the initiative to facilitate just such a meeting. READ MORE… Look for more free resources at Jewelry Designers Resource Center We are proudly affiliated with The Jewelers resource Bureau…
There are three good reasons why the FBI investigates jewelry and gem theft.
There are three good reasons why the FBI investigates jewelry and gem theft. There are many major gem thefts and robberies that cross state and national borders, so this is part of why the Federal Bureau of Investigation gets involved. Organized groups are often involved so diligence is important is keeping yourself, your employees and your goods safe… First, the thefts usually cross state and even national boundaries—so they need a federal agency with offices across the nation and overseas to investigate these highly mobile jewelry thieves. Second, these crimes are increasingly committed by organized criminal enterprises or “theft groups” that likewise require a federal agency with tough laws and with offices across the U.S. and overseas to bust. And third, these theft groups are often involved in other kinds of organized crime activities already under scrutiny by the FBI. Read More…
World Jewelry Tool Company | Website 119, BIS Building 1st Floor Maheasak Road, BanRak Bangkok, 10500 Thailand Tel: +66-2-635-9998 email: Teck Thai Group | Website: email: Tel: +66-2-226-0055 Gesswein | Website 201 Hancock Avenue P.O. Box 3998 Bridgeport, Connecticut 06605-0936 U.S.A. 1-203-366-5400 Fax: 1-203-366-3953 email: Otto Frei | Website 126 2nd St, Oakland CA 94607, USA 1.510.832.0355 1.800.772.3456 email: Zak Jewelry Tools | Website: 55 West 47th Street 2nd floor New York, New York 10036 1-212-768-8122 1-800-369-6424 1-212-764-7847 email: Stuller Jewelry Tools | Website: 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Rio Grande Jewelry Tools | Website: 7500 Bluewater Rd NW Albuquerque, NM 87121 USA 1.800.545.6566 Jewelry Tools | Website: 1521 West 2550 South, Ogden, UT 84401 email: 1-866-453-6147 International Colored Gem Association | Website: Unit No.11, 8th Floor Heng Ngai Jewelry Centre No.4 Hok Yuen Street East Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: 852-2365 9318 email:
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