About Ruby

Contemporary jeweller Romilly Saumarez Smith The recycling of ancient art pieces into jewelry is taking hold in Newfoundland, Canada. The art and designs of jeweler Romilly Saumarez Smith is proving to be both inspirational and innovative. The more than 70 new designs exhibited at the Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts of re-purposed Roman and Anglo-Saxon metalwork have sparked interest and acclaim in the design world. Although one does not usually think of Newfoundland as a hub of innovation in jewelry designing. At least one jeweler is proving that the remote location is not a hindrance at all. The jewelry pieces are unusual and eye catching as well, making a statement of how to take the old even ancient and modernize it. The designers world can find new directions in many uncommon sources but sometimes a new way of looking at the old creates the new. Newfoundland Sat 5 Dec 2015 – 10 April 2016 Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts, Norwich Newfoundland is an exhibition of work by contemporary jeweller Romilly Saumarez Smith and artist Verdi Yahooda. Each of the 70+ pieces in the exhibition are unique and have at their core Roman, Anglo-Saxon or Mediaeval metalwork, dropped or discarded hundreds of years ago. In 2011, Romilly became fascinated by the amazing availability of these antique objects, which she discovered on eBay – the finds of metal detectorists who scour the countryside in search of lost treasure. She quickly recognised the inherent beauty of buttons, pins, thimbles and metal buckles which arrived in the post, tightly wrapped. Originally these objects were everyday domestic things, but lost in the ground and buried in time they have become particular and special. READ MORE…

Three Young Labels Making Old Methods New Again Looking to old time tested techniques and designs is a wonderful means of discovering new jewelry markets for your designs. Jewelry designers around the world are tapping into this concept in a big way, they are renewing interest in old even forgotten styles and techniques of producing wearable desirable jewelry.  Manufacturing methods from the past and designs that they create are now becoming modern fashion statements. This article below shows how ancient Indian beadwork can be renewed and made into a saleable piece of distinct jewelry with the style of the ancestors. It covers the use of cloth and wax to create new interest in the old Sri Lankan methods. I takes a look at the East African cultures influences in today’s fashions. These type of old to new design inspirations are common if one takes the time to look beyond the ordinary and the current trends. In fact an ambitious designer can start a new trend with old manufacturing  using new colors and updating some styles of old world techniques that have been tested by time. A crop of new jewelry and fashion designers are incorporating practices they discovered while traveling to their ancestral homes. Here, three brands taking cues from ancient methods — and employing artisans trained in them. Etkie Southwestern United States Etkie’s Sydney Alfonso When Sydney Alfonso decided to start her jewelry line, Etkie, in 2014, she was living in Istanbul. But instead of using the Turkish kazalik technique of silk wire weaving, she chose to create bracelets and necklaces inspired by traditional Navajo beadwork and created on the same looms that have existed for centuries. Alfonso is well on her way to achieving her ultimate goal: creating dignified jobs in local communities by honoring their inhabitants’ customs and traditions. The jewelry is made primarily on a Navajo reservation, just 30 minutes from the ranch in New Mexico where Alfonso grew up. Kinsfolk Sri Lanka The jewelry designers Jessica and Josie Fernando have early memories of visiting batik and woodcarving workshops during childhood trips back to their father’s native Sri Lanka. So when they founded Kinsfolk in 2013, they launched a line of batik scarves. “Sri Lankan batik has a very old history,” Jessica says. “We are completely devoted to preserving the craft of handmade textiles by combining traditional batik methods with a more modern aesthetic.” Kinsfolk founders Jessica (left) and Josie Fernando The sophisticated designs, drawn on pure, untreated silk with hot wax before dyeing, are inspired by nearly every corner of Sri Lanka Mataano Ethiopia and Somalia Twins Ayaan and Idyl Mohallim moved from their native Somalia at age 9 to escape civil war. In 2012, decades later and three years after founding Mataano, they returned to East Africa for Hub of Africa Fashion Week and traveled to the Harari region. “We found ourselves taking photos of indigenous tribes and old architecture, scouring the markets for fabric and print inspiration,” Ayaan says of the trip. READ MORE…

Although she has the advantage of her family name her inspiration came from a piece of her great grand mothers jewelry. She found her passion to become a jewelry designer herself. This story is a perfect example of how a jewelry designer can find inspiration in an unexpected place and become a viable jewelry designer with a marketable line of jewelry designs. Finding a particular concept and running with it can be a challenge, look for a simple plentiful source of unique materials, gems, wood, leather or what ever the material the jewelry is created from. Ms. Vanderbilt may have had name recognition, but she had no experience in jewelry designing until she was inspired by her great grandmothers jewelry, look for your inspiration wherever you can find it do not limit where you look for and find design inspiration. My jewelry designs way back when I started were inspired by such things as the textures and complex curves of the inside of sliced vegetables, and plants, I later went on to find ideas in insects and animals. I have also used engine parts and industrial equipment to base my designs on. I have even used design concepts from patterns in water when you add food coloring and freeze it without mixing it so it stays in bands of color. Talk about a family inspiration! Consuelo Vanderbilt Costin is part of the Vanderbilt family dynasty and says after inheriting a ring from her great-grandmother, she knew she wanted to design jewelry. The line of affordable pearl and diamond fashion jewelry is currently available on http://www.hsn.com. Watch as Consuelo introduces us to her jewelry line and how each piece has a story behind it, just waiting to be told. broach Family heritage – Consuelo Vanderbilt Costin is a direct descendent of shipping and railroad tycoon Cornelius Vanderbilt, and cousin of Anderson Cooper and Gloria Vanderbilt. – Family heritage: – Consuelo Vanderbilt Costin’s mother was Serena Vanderbilt Ingen McCallum, – Consuelo Vanderbilt Costin’s grandmother Iris Ada Vanderbilt – Consuelo Vanderbilt Costin’s great grandmother Consuelo Vanderbilt Earl – Consuelo Vanderbilt Costin’s great-great grandfather William K. Vanderbilt II – Consuelo Vanderbilt Costin’s great-great-great aunt Consuelo Vanderbilt (Duchess of Marlborough) neck– “The Duchess” Choker was developed in homage to the Duchess of Marlborough, who wore a stunning multi-strand pearl choker to accentuate her legendary long neck; the envy of many society women during the early 19th century. – The single strand pearl necklace that each Vanderbilt woman receives on her 18th birthday inspired ”The Coming of Age” Necklace, which comes with a matching Tennis Bracelet,. The exquisite “Five Generations” Pearl Ring and Necklace feature five pearls in a nod to the legendary women that inspired the process. READ MORE…

Northwestern University’s FUSE program on Jewelry Design Local Jewelry Designer Creates FUSE Challenge The FUSE program at Northwestern University has touch thousands and local  jewelry designer Christopher Duquet has offered a design contest to students which has become successful and is getting more and more attention. Offering jewelry design help to students that have never been interested in jewelry design prior to this incredible program. Students are finding that they can design things they never thought they would be able to do in the past. Using state of the art 3d software to print out the designs and even wear them home has sparked tremendous interest. The winner of the design contest will have their design cast in sterling silver EVANSTON, Ill. — Like many teenagers, Isabel Pietri loves wearing jewelry. But designing her own pieces? The idea had never crossed her mind. Then Pietri won a chance to work with Evanston jewelry designer Christopher Duquet through Northwestern University’s FUSE program, a series of challenges designed to get students excited about science, technology, engineering, arts/design and mathematics (STEAM). For Pietri, now a sophomore at Kelvyn Park High School in Chicago, the experience changed the way she thought about math and science and sparked a newfound interest in computer-based art. “At first my ideas were really simple, but after talking with Christopher they got better,” Pietri said in a newly released video that showcases her collaboration with Duquet. “I had no idea I could do something so technical and complicated.”Read more…

5-Carat Lab-Grown Blue Diamond Graded by GIA With labs perfecting the HPHT lab process for lab grown diamonds larger and larger stones are coming to the markets. Recent a 5.03ct blue diamond grown in a laboratory was inspected by GIA. These larger stones are causing a lot of interest in the markets, as the technology increases the quality is as well. Although a lab grown gem can be detected in a number of ways they still are causing the jewelry industry to sit up and take notice. This particular man made gemstone was significant enough to have the findings published early online by GIA. The company to produce it in Russia is thought to be the producer of the largest known lab created blue diamond in the world. Regardless of what you call them these man made, lab grown, lab created stones are getting more and more attention in the worlds jewelry markets. Jewelry designers are taking notice as well. Of course full disclosure of the source of these gems is taking place, it is important to have knowledge that the are coming onto the market. Although differing opinions on these created gems exist the fact is they are here to stay and are becoming a normal part of the industry. Regardless of what one thinks of these beautiful examples of gems, it is a fact that they are now a permanent part of the jewelry business and one should stay informed about the advances being made in creating them. New York–The Gemological Institute of America’s New York laboratory recently evaluated the largest lab-grown blue diamond it’s seen to date, a 5.03-carat stone made by a diamond company based in St. Petersburg, Russia. According to a Lab Note authored by GIA researchers Kyaw Soe Moe, Paul Johnson, Ulrika D’Haenens-Johansson and Wuyi Wang, the emerald-cut diamond was produced by NDT. NDT, or New Diamond Technology, is one of the founding members of the new International Grown Diamond Association. It’s also the company that produced the world’s largest known colorless diamond, a 10.02-carat, F color, VS1 stone cut from a 32.26-carat piece of rough and submitted to IGI Hong Kong last year. The Lab Note stated that the 5.03-carat diamond exhibited a number of traits characteristic of diamonds grown using the high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) process, including color zoning and a cuboctahedral growth pattern. READ MORE…

There are three good reasons why the FBI investigates jewelry and gem theft. There are many major gem thefts and robberies that cross state and national borders, so this is part of why the Federal Bureau of Investigation gets involved. Organized groups are often involved so diligence is important is keeping yourself, your employees and your goods safe… First, the thefts usually cross state and even national boundaries—so they need a federal agency with offices across the nation and overseas to investigate these highly mobile jewelry thieves. Second, these crimes are increasingly committed by organized criminal enterprises or “theft groups” that likewise require a federal agency with tough laws and with offices across the U.S. and overseas to bust. And third, these theft groups are often involved in other kinds of organized crime activities already under scrutiny by the FBI. Read More…

Gem and Jewelry Market Trends New trends in the colored gem markets have exciting prospects, colored diamonds and other colored gemstones are growing in interest by fashion and jewelry designers worldwide. With prospects looking good overall there are a few areas of concern that will need to be watched closely. Such as the Thailand supply market being in danger of loosing its status with the United States because of its growing economic market in the world. This could force many suppliers to move to such places as Cambodia. The pressure of a prolonged economic slowdown is also having a lasting effect on the gemstone supply markets. Competition from Sri Lanka and India continue to have some affect on the Thailand gem supply system, Vietnam has good supplies of Rubies, Sapphires and Spinel. Online and TV marketing is growing and many mid range buyers are now better informed and educated in purchasing gems, this in turn causes development of new strategies in selling the goods effectively. Watch for colored diamonds in the brown range to grow with more aggressive sales and marketing branding them with color names like cognac and champagne. A new trend is formatting during such change. Mid-range consumers start to purchase medium priced products through platforms like home-shopping via the television marketing. It shows that demands for gems and jewelry are still high. It is a great opportunity for the large-scale market expansion. Volumes of the mid-range consumers are much bigger than solely the creme portion. Top-end consumers have enough knowledge about the products, which makes them natural-ready buyers, so to speak. This segment will remain strong. But without doubt, mid-range customers will contribute to the majority. While the top consumers look for investing values in luxurious products, the mid-range ones look for individualism to speak up for their self-presentations. Tones and colors have been opening up from traditional red and green to new shades like orange, yellow, mint green and pink. Fashion designers are working closely with jewelry. Trends are getting vertically integrated. Certification and traceability will get in both the supply and consumer ends, therefore, image of confidence and knowledge are key determinant in emerging markets. READ MORE…

7 Trends to Watch in 2016 Trends come and go but if your designing jewelry for fun and profit you should at least follow trending designs and add your own twist to them. Of course it is still alright to be totally original in design but following trends in gemstones and metals used in current trends will help you to increase your sales. Also following the fashion trends for clothing can give you an edge over other jewelry designers. Finding jewelry designer resources that offer this information will give you an advantage over designers who do not. Keep your eye on what colored gems are becoming popular and incorporate them into your design concepts, try new things as often as you can. This will increase your creative juices and expand your scope of jewelry designing. Try following the articles of the National Jeweler I find it very informative and timely on following trends in design color, gems and much more. this online magazine is a super resource for jewelry designers amateur or professional. Aspiring designers can learn much from the designer resources of publications like this. Many amateur jewelry designers lack simple resources to have their designs turned into jewelry. This was an issue for me way back in the 1970’s when I first began to design and create jewelry I found that I was paying far too much for professional services like wax carving and casting. Also my limit knowledge caused me to be far too dependent on the limited resources in my area. If you are an aspiring jewelry designer don’t let your limited knowledge or local resources be a problem, if you don’t find what you need on your own just ask I will be happy to assist you in locating your supplies, tools and services that will make your designs into the finished piece you envision. In other words just get started and do it, there is no longer any reason to fail in creating your beautiful jewelry designs. January 04, 2016 | By Brecken Branstrator Mixed metals in bridal, like this 18-karat rose and white gold ring set from LX Antwerp, will continue to be popular next year. New York–It’s going to be an exciting year in jewelry design. Trends have been taking new and innovative turns, and now spread across the country faster than ever, as social media and the Internet allow everyone to see and adapt to them in a short period of time. Because of this, retailers need to adapt to the trends more quickly or even be out ahead of them, said Amanda Gizzi, director of public relations and special events at Jewelers of America. Here are the trends that the experts think will be popping up, and staying put, in the fine jewelry market in 2016. 1. Stackables/layering. This trend isn’t going anywhere, especially for pieces that are personalized or allow for the sentimental. In jewelry, this includes layering delicate necklaces together as well as stacking rings and bracelets. “It’s really important (for retailers) to have and buy these pieces to drive in the younger generation,” Gizzi said. “It’s a buy-one-today, add-one-tomorrow mentality.” READ MORE… Jewelry Designers Resource Center is a proud affiliate of the Jewelers Resource Bureau take a moment to look at becoming a member. CLICK HERE…

 Jewelry designer breaths life into antiques A growing trend in the jewelry design world is to re-purpose antique pieces of stone and other materials into new beautiful jewelry. One Chinese designer is getting recognition for her use of gold, silver, jade and porcelain in her new designs. But this trend is not just in the Chinese markets it is happening around the world, many designers are beginning with antique stones and other materials to create new innovative jewelry design concepts. These pieces coming forth infuses the new with the old and offers a new way to look at jewelry design in general. Start looking at the old to find your new design inspirations and concepts, there are innumerable antiques out there that need a new life pumped into them. This is a spectacular means of paying tribute to the work of the craftsmen of the past and making their works available to be used long into the future. This is not to say that antique inspired jewelry designs can have modern design concepts and trends built in, but just the opposite. New design inspirations can be found in unusual places like o;d military buttons that can be re-purposed into pendants and charm bracelets. Antique cut crystal that has been broken can be reground and incorporated into necklaces of sparkle. Just use you imagination and try something new, you just may be surprised what can come of whimsical design ideas. By Tong Wangyue | January 17, 2016, Sunday IN many ways, the jewelry of designer Zhang Lijun’s is emblematic of her native Suzhou. It’s modern and elegant and strives to combine the old with the new. Her passion for traditional Chinese culture and old art objects as well as the picturesque Suzhou Gardens, which she says have helped form her style, are all mirrored in her jewelry design. Walking the streets of Suzhou, Zhang is always on the lookout for small antiques and, by incorporating them into her designs, she gives them a second life instead of just restoring their old beauty. Her exquisite designs are a perky mix of these rustic elements with metals like gold and silver as well as with more traditional Chinese jewelry elements like jade and porcelain. The combinations come naturally and are spontaneous — Zhang says she follows her feelings and instincts in creating her designs. READ MORE…

Jewelry Designer Kara Ross Is Redefining Diamonds in a Truly Empowering Way Diamonds can be for girls to buy for to buy for themselves, this is the belief of New York Jewelry Designer Kara Ross and I agree, her designs are wonderful and should be worn by any woman who desires. Gemstones like diamonds are timeless to this day, but times are changing on the acceptance and desire of women to buy diamond designs for themselves. I feel that white diamonds are too limited when there are so many beautiful colored gems and colored diamonds on the gem markets to be ignored and not put in new concept jewelry designs. Countless possibilities are there for the use of white and colored diamonds for whimsical jewelry designs that a woman can treat herself to. Classical designs will always be in style, with many new concepts and the out of the box thinking that is coming into the gem and jewelry designers palette and reaching the markets. Kara Ross has long been passionate about rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and other rare gemstones. But it’s diamonds that are most captivating the fine jewelry designer these days—and not in the way that you’d think. The New York City designer has long pushed the envelope when it comes to creating unexpected, whimsical and artistic fine jewelry. And after making waves in the world of fine jewelry by drilling gems into baroque pearl (unheard-of!) setting semiprecious gemstones into fobs on handbags (jewelry on handbags!), Ross is daring to break another longstanding tradition in the category: She wants you to buy your own diamonds. “There is a stigma attached to buying a diamond, [mainly] that you have to wait until you get engaged to have one,” Ross told Glamour, “Women buy their own cars, houses—diamonds are the only commodity that still have the stigma that women shouldn’t buy themselves one. I want to break that.” And that’s just what Ross is doing with her new initiative and collection, called Diamonds Unleashed. Diamonds Unleashed is not simply a really gorgeous fine jewelry collection, it celebrates and supports women through various outlets including salons, where women can discuss important topics that make a difference and women’s charitable organizations across the world, such as She’s the First and Girls Who Code. READ MORE… We are proud to be affiliated with the Jewelers Resource Bureau consider becoming a member.

What It’s Like to Cut the World’s Most Expensive Diamond? Keeping in mind that it is very rare that a diamond like the Blue Moon diamond comes to auction, it is a noteworthy event to share with the world. Last November 2015 a 12.03ct vivid blue flawless diamond sold for nearly $50 million dollars. Not a lot of players in this market and they all came looking. In the end the rough piece went for approximately $26 million and the scene was set for the cutting to bring out the best price possible. Imagine if cut incorrectly it could have been a worthless rock. Diamonds like this piece are extremely rare, and even more rare in the opportunity to cut such a magnificent piece of nature. The planning to cut such a rare piece of earths treasure is a forthright process of accessing the color and size to maximize the presentation for jewelry designers to work with. They considered an emerald and round cut prior to settling on the cushion cut. Color was the priority factor in the cut design that was used, the cushion cut achieved it’s desired affect on the auction public. In November, Sotheby’s sold the Blue Moon, the 12.03 ct. internally flawless vivid blue cushion cut, for $48.5 million, setting a world record for a diamond at auction.  Before that, however, the stone, discovered at the Cullinan mine in South Africa, was a 29.62 ct. piece of rough, which was purchased by Cora International for $25.6 million at a February 2014 tender. But what happened in between? How is cutting such a rare and valuable stone—one significant enough to be exhibited at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County—different from cutting any other stone? Below, Cora chairman Ehud Laniado gives JCK an exclusive look at the process. Bidding on the stone. When assessing the rough at tender, the main thing is to gauge the color and the recovery. That usually doesn’t take more than a half hour. Then you do the homework, thinking about all the options. Even though the Blue Moon was a straightforward stone, there were a few options, and we added them up. We basically estimated the value of the end product, how much it will be worth at transaction prices on the market. We estimated the polished will reach from $40 million to $45 million. You discount the possibility that you might be stuck with it. Then you subtract the duration of the process, the margin, your expenses. You take into account this is a high-risk process because you don’t know 100 percent how a natural material will behave. READ MORE…

National Jeweler has an article about the second largest rough diamond ever unearthed, a 222 gram or 1,111ct spectacular rough diamond was discovered in Botswana recently. This particular mine has also recently found three other diamonds over 300 carats. Rough gems this large are extremely rare and to have this many found in a single year is very big news. The Karowe mine is located in Botswana at the AK6 kimberlite pipe. Congratulations are in order here for such a spectacular discovery of mother natures finest creations Lucara President and CEO William Lamb said the 1,111-carat diamond workers found Monday at the company’s Karowe Mine is “slightly smaller than a tennis ball.” This picture provided by Lucara shows how big the diamond is when compared to a loupe.The diamond, which measures 65 mm x 56 mm x 40 mm, is too large to fit in any of the rough evaluation machines Lucara has on-site in Botswana and likely will be sent to Antwerp for further evaluation. Read More…  

Gemstone Treatments and Enhancements Heat treatment is the most common way to enhance the color and appearance of gemstones. Gemstone treating is not a new phenomenon and dates back as far as 50AD. Treating gemstones is normal in the industry and may or may not affect the value. High quality unheated rubies and sapphires are extremely rare and command a higher price over treated stones. These untreated stones comprise about ½ of 1% of the total market so a normal consumer is unlikely to find one at the local jewelry store. Most people buy jewelry for appearance so treated stones fill the bill nicely and keep the prices reasonable. Common Gemstones that are treated ◦Ruby: nearly all are heated to improve color and appearance. ◦Sapphire: nearly all are heated to improve color and appearance. ◦Tanzanite: heated to produce violet blue color. ◦Emerald: oiled with colorless oil to improve appearance. ◦Aquamarine: heated to improve color. ◦Blue topaz: irradiated and or heated to produce blue color. ◦Jade: generally impregnated with colored resins and or colorless waxes.

Jewellery Design Japanese jeweller sees dazzling future in coloured gem industry New designs and the creative use of colored stones are increasing interest in the worlds markets for fresh jewellery designs. The new interest in even some of the semi precious stones like alexandrite, and tourmaline, topaz, citrine, peridot and rose quartz is exciting. These new concepts are gaining the attention of many in the jewellery design industry. Even the established design houses are paying more attention to these fine colored stones. Companies like Kajita in Japan have come up with new concepts in the use of colored gemstones. In the article featured below we see that the 2016 season is expected to explode with new designs of a spectacular nature. The 2016 season is looking very colorful indeed especially in Asia and the middle east. The diamonds are still there it is just that new trends in colors are driving the design process for certain markets. Jewelry News Asia Issue No.: 376 02/12/2015 ‘Magic in the Air’ platinum necklace with diamonds, blue sapphires and a 5.3-carat Paraiba tourmaline centre stone Japan-based fine jewellery manufacturer Kajita Co Ltd expects an increase in demand for coloured gemstone jewellery among local and overseas customers in 2016, fueled mainly by rubies, sapphires and emeralds as well as the rising popularity of other coloured gemstones such as Paraiba tourmaline and alexandrite. With this in mind, the company is aiming to tap into potential markets in Asia and the Middle East to further strengthen its global reach, said Kengo Kajita, company executive director and COO. Established in 1920, Kajita Co Ltd is a family-run enterprise that specialises in fine jewellery and other luxury items. Its focus has always been coloured gemstone jewellery, Kajita noted, adding that the company successfully built its reputation as one of Japan’s major industry players. READ MORE…

Diamond Fun Facts GIA (Gemological Institute of America) was establish as a non profit resource for gemology in 1931. They are the leading diamond authority in the world. Below is a clip from a very well written article on diamond facts. Did You Know? Diamonds can be burned. To burn a diamond, it must be heated to between 1290 Diamonds were used to engrave gemstones in India by 300 BCE. 1290-1650 degrees Fahrenheit. House fires and jewelers’ torches can sometimes reach that temperature. D-to-Z color diamonds are the most widely used in jewelry, but diamonds come in all colors of the rainbow. For natural colored diamonds, blue, green, orange and red are the rarest; yellow and brown are the most common. READ MORE.    

Choosing a Gemstone Price and Prejudice Many factors and prejudices come into play when choosing a gemstone for a jewelry design. The 4 C’s are always a factor but some other factors are at in the mix as well. Popular fashion trends can have a great affect on what color gemstones are losing or gaining popularity as accents to fashion. Many gems have funny names and this alone can make it sell less, some designers come up with new fancy sounding names for gems to make the sound more exotic and appealing to the retail customer. As always trends in color change and return to the classics over and over with some variations. There are many factors to consider when buying a new gem for hardness and fracture resistance should always be considered especially for rings and bracelets because of possible impact damage. Colors like brown have been slow to catch on but occasionally a spectacular brown diamond will appear with a name like cognac and it sells and makes a stir. Price and Prejudice For Jane Austen, matrimony was as much a financial transaction as an emotional one, with everyone trying to get the best possible bargain. Buying a gem is also the beginning of a life-long relationship and the price you pay is part of the deal. Understandably, you don’t want to pay too much. So how can you tell if you are paying the right price? First of all, don’t ask how much you should pay for a one-carat ruby. A one carat ruby can be worth ten dollars or it can be worth $10,000. Quality makes the difference. Fortunately you can see differences in quality if you look at a lot of rubies side-by-side. Better color costs more, a lot more. Better clarity costs more. Better cut may cost a little more but it is worth it! The bigger the stone, the more it is per carat. Within each variety, prices are based on these four Cs, with color as the most important factor. There is a more detailed explanation in the judging quality section. READ MORE… We at JDRC are proud affiliates of the Jewelers Resource Bureau please take a few moments to look at becoming a member.

Top Gems of 2015 The Fashion and Jewellery industries are linked at the hip one is dependent on the other in an equal symbiosis of trends in color texture as they evolve. This past year has seen four gems stand out in the fashion designing world. They come in varied vivid colors which compliment and contrast the latest fashion designs as accents in jewellery. Some are surprising new names that have come into their own as accepted and recommended by designers. Sapphire is a surprisingly durable gemstone seen in fashion design circles and jewelry shows around the world. A surprising top performer in Morganite as it surged in sales in 2015 from industry sources, it did not out perform the near perennial blue sapphire. But was the most advanced contender for attention in the design and fashion world this year according to a number of retail and wholesale jewelers. Fashion and design trends also can help bring a gemstone back in vogue as popular shades and hues trickle down to the fine jewelry market, and it’s interesting once a new year gets going to notice what’s popping up again and again, whether that be loose or in finished jewelry. I love watching to see which gems I notice throughout the year are really having their time in the spotlight and how market trends pull certain stones and shades to the forefront. After a year of attending shows, press previews and looking at a lot of new jewelry, here are the gems that I thought were hottest in 2015. READ MORE…

How to begin jewelry designing It is a simple process to begin jewelry designing. All you really need is a picture in your mind of what you want to see in your hand. Anyone can design jewelry if they have the desire to try, although there are many training courses and schools, desire is the most important factor. Jewelry design is as simple as putting on paper or computer screen what you see in your head, Start with a sketchpad. Try drawing the basic design, vary it in a few ways, to see the possibilities and get the creative juices flowing. Some famous jewelry designers have started out as housewives, and even corporate executives. No formal training is needed to design jewelry, however if you are serious about it you may consider looking at some jewelry design training lessons available online. Many YouTube videos simplify the seemingly complicated process and make you see it is not so difficult. Be daring and never give up trying new things and concepts, ask loads of questions and find free jewelry designer resources online to learn from. Look at nature in a different way, the patterns of nature make great jewelry designs, the veins on a leaf, the pattern of seeds inside a piece of fruit, the petals of a flower, insects and animals can all give inspiration to a person with a burning desire to design their own jewelry. There is no one way to begin, just get started and read, watch and learn as you go along. There are many ways, materials and techniques that can be used as a means to envision a new jewelry design. Colored semi precious gemstones can also be a source of ideas and a starting point, just look at everything you see as a potential design concept. Simple household items like string can be the beginning of new hot jewelry design ideas. Jewelry design and trend setting is not the exclusive world of the professional, many famous designers began as amateurs and found that they had a unique way of looking at the world that appealed to others. There is no wrong way to get started, except not to try. Old, young, male and female all make their mark in the world or jewelry design and there are some many facets to the jewelry industry there is always room for new ideas and input. I began designing jewelry on an spring morning with a piece of bone from the lamb dinner I had the evening before. I had seen a show about the ancient art of scrimshaw on whale bone. I broke out my little Dremel tool and began to carve away. That first piece became a concept religious cross, family and friend encouraged me by telling me they thought it was a cool design, it all came from my head no sketch, no final design, it just came out of trying to see if I could make something, anything from that little bit of bone. Many folks into hobbies like beading find their way into designing jewelry and look for resources to help them along the learning process.  Look for resources online to help you learn the terminology, materials and tools you may need. Don’t be intimidated by the volume of things to learn, just work your way through one at a time, some may be of great interest to you others may not. Keep in mind there is not right or wrong way to get started all you need to do is get started. Don’t be afraid to ask questions from people in the industry, try to attend a gem and jewelry show in your area, they are great resources for ideas and supplies to help you learn and expand your knowledge.

Jewelry Designers Honored At The 2016 GEM Awards Jewelry designers have been honored by the GEM Awards at the annual event held in Manhattan. Jewelry designers from the fine jewelry industry consider these awards as the “Academy Awards of Jewelry Design”. These awards are prestigious and an industry high point of the season. Jewelers of America sponsored this event which is in it’s 14th year. Jewelry designers have many different industry recognition awards throughout the jewelry world. The jewelry design industry is far more reaching than just one event such as the GEM Awards can cover. Many jewelry designers never see their designs in award ceremonies yet they have outstanding deigns and concepts for the jewelry market. It is such an expansive industry and has so many facets from fine jewelry to children’s jewelry no one award ceremony can cover it all. Aspiring designers sometimes are intimidated by the fact that they don’t feel their designs are up to the standard of the industry. Keep in mind that if your concepts are not for one genre` they will find there place in another area of the jewelry world. Just keep working and refining your designs until you find your niche in the jewelry design community. By Alexandra Suarez The annual GEM Awards is a gala event that is widely recognized as the “Academy Awards” of the fine jewelry industry. At this year’s 14th annual GEM Awards, which took place on Jan. 8 at Cipriani 42nd St. in Manhattan, some of the top fine jewelry designers and editors in the industry were honored for their achievements in design and innovation. The Jewelers of America (JA), a national trade association for business in the fine jewelry market, hosts the gala event in order to, “honor the achievements of individuals and companies whose work raises the visibility of fine jewelry and watches.” According to WWD, this year’s attendees included legendary names in the industry, from David Yurman and Stephen Webster to Pamela Love and Neiman Marcus’ Larry Pelzel. READ MORE…

New Madagascar Aquamarine Discovery When newly sourced Aquamarine shows up at a show it is news, collectors were excited to see 5 kilos of high quality unheated show up in Tucson. These are fine quality goods coming from Madagascar few inclusions and no green or gray stones that would require heat treatment. Cut in emerald and cushion shapes for the most part collectors could pick them for the best colors. Unheated Aquamarine is rare and color this nice is as well, the prices are reasonable and interest was high. A hardness of 7.5 is very suitable for jewelry designs a beautiful color and cut with sizes 5-10cts. These particular pieces should be a big hit when the are scooped up by collectors and jewelry designers. As members of the Beryl family of gemstones they will be treasured additions to a collection, jewelry designers are also lucky to have the opportunity to pick out some quality pieces for their new design concepts. Collectors are always looking for a new hot gemstone that’s inexpensive. Ideally, everyone wants to be in o n the bottom floor of the next Brazilian Paraiba tourmaline discovery. The Brazilian Paraiba story is unique but truthfully, may only happen once in a lifetime. However, as a general rule, collectors who buy gemstones before they become popular or known, generally see pretty nice increases in price appreciation as the material dwindles. New Large Find Madagascar Aquamarine has been intermittent for years but in January, 5 kilos showed up before the Tucson Gem Show. The market now has enough material to satisfy collectors, jewelers, and high end manufacturers. Large suites are being created for major necklaces. Jewelers can now get single stones for rings and necklaces and collectors can obtain single stones or suites of the new material. Brief Gemology Aquamarine is a beryl, the same family as emerald. Aquamarine gets its color from iron. Many aqua’s are greenish blue, although the pure blues are considered the ideal. Aquamarine is 7.5 in hardness, which makes it durable for jewelry. READ MORE…

Lapidary Gem cutting  and polishing is also known as lapidary it can be done with minimal equipment however very elaborate equipment is available. Most novice lapidary enthusiasts can get along with basic gear. This is enough for high quality results in the faceting and polishing of gems. Tumbling is the most basic form of the lapidary arts, stones are placed in a cylinder with abrasives, these abrasives are replaced with finer and finer grits until the degree of polish sheen is achieved. Cabbing or Cabachons Cabbing or Cutting cabochons is probably the most common form of gem lapidary work. These cabs often have a retail value Cabs are gems with a domed top and a flat bottom. The retail value will depend on the material the cab is cut from. Many gems are cut and then mounted in precious metals for fine jewelry. Learning how to cab a stone requires investment in specialized tools and equipment. The skill one achieves depends on training and time invested in practicing the art form.

The Underrated Pleasure of Wearing Jewelry Made Just for You The pleasure of wearing jewelry made just for you is gratifying, imagine the gratification of being the one to design it for yourself. Many amateur jewelry designers began this way, first having an image of a piece of jewelry they would love to have, they sketch it and  have it made up fr them. More often than not this starts a trend and they begin designing more and more, until one day they realize they are a jewelry designer. In this article see how a twist on this theme is started when an author gets into jewelry related to publishing her works. In any regard having jewelry made just for you is a buzz one won’t soon forget. The fact that these designs can be very exclusive and even one off pieces is a satisfying factor as well. Regardless of the reasons having jewelry unique to you is a pleasure in itself, with years of use ahead. Theme inspired jewelry is just one type of special made custom designed fashion accessory. Many aspects of the jewelry business are related to branding other products such as books or even fashion, this is a very effective means of gaining name recognition. By HANYA YANAGIHARA APRIL 6, 2016 I am not embarrassed to say that one of the great benefits to publishing a book is jewelry. When my first novel, “The People in the Trees,” came out in 2013, I bought just one thing with my advance: a deep-blue enamel ring that I had lettered with the first line — Kaulana na pua a o Hawaii/Famous are the flowers of Hawaii — of one of the most resonant Hawaiian protest songs, “Famous Are the Flowers,” written in 1893 to voice support for the overthrown Queen Liliuokalani, the islands’ last monarch. My book was an allegory of Pacific colonialism, and it seemed right that I should wear this reminder of Hawaii, what it had been and what it had lost, on my hand. When my second novel, “A Little Life,” was published last March, I didn’t buy any jewelry. But people gave it to me anyway: a reader sent me a silver cuff. A group of my close friends got together and bought me a ring — a heavy gold bird with round, brilliant-cut diamonds for eyes and dangling a briolette-shaped ruby from its mouth like a drop of blood — from the renowned Jaipur-based jeweler Gem Palace. (This very creation had actually inspired a similar piece of jewelry that appears in the book’s final chapter.) But even so, I wanted a piece of custom jewelry, something to commemorate the novel’s characters, who had become as vivid and complicated to me as my own friends: certainly it felt as if I had spent more time with them in the year and a half it had taken to write the book than I had spent with actual humans. And then my friend Claudia, a jewelry editor, told me about a label called Foundrae. When we wear a piece of custom jewelry, we are adding ourselves to a legacy as old as the Romans, the Greeks, the Persians — older. READ MORE… We are proud to be affiliated wit the Jewelers Resource Bureau, they have loads of highly useful tools and sources for all aspects of the jewelry industry.

A simple wax carver becomes rocking jewelry star Many people who design their own jewelry also carve the wax models for the production of the design. In some cases these designers have fame in two fields, a great wax carver is always in high demand. Paul Robilotti is one wax carver whose designs are very popular with rock stars, movie stars and presidents. Imagine having clientele so diverse after your jewelry designs. Mr Robilotti has done wax carvings for customers like De Beers, and Peter Max and more. His successes in both fields is somewhat unusual yet it demonstrates that no one should limit themselves. And jewelry designers who are not able to carve their own wax designs need a man like who understands both the design and wax portions of the industry.   If you were asked what Keith Richards, Ronald Reagan and Whoppie Goldberg could possibly have in common, you’d probably come up empty. The fact is, they all have a piece of Paul Robilotti jewelry, either chosen for them by someone close to them who knows their taste or picked out by themselves. That goes to show you the range of his appeal and only hints at the level of quality in his work. You can learn more about Paul and his jewelry designs at his website, reached here. What many of his fans are not aware of — and the point of this page — is that he has also been a prolific and highly-sought-after modelmaker and wax carver for nearly 30 years. He has worked behind-the-scenes for many of New York City’s most accomplished design houses on Madison Ave, Seventh Ave. and in the 47th St. Diamond District. READ MORE…

Properly sizing a ring with stones can be tricky, this video helps avoid the pitfalls

12 Jewelry Trends for 2016: 10 Pairs of Studs and Earring Jackets… If these earring designs are trending there must be complimenting pendents and necklaces along with them. It is a good thing to watch trends of jewelry design when creating new designs each season. However you can become a trendsetter by varying the design trends with your own twists and concepts. Design concepts and trends should not be driven by fashionistas, but by jewelry designers with vision. This simple rule will help you create more innovative designs based on trending colors or styles at the moment of creation. But classic timeless jewelry designs are always in style and they can become a signature of the trends that you set for yourself when you look for new avenues of styling your goods. So this year earring studs are trending, try putting a new wave into your earring studs, try new colors, new geometric’s, new mountings, all within the trend yet new in concept with a classic base of style. The annual list of 12 Jewelry Trends for 2016 serves as a guideline for store purchases in the new year, highlighting pieces and materials trending now, based on the clothing, color, red carpet, and real-life influences at work in the market. Studs and earring jackets are the second trend on the list. Here are 10 new pairs for retailers to consider stocking. Studs and earring jackets. These have shaped up to be a consumer fave! Wearing studs solo offers some versatility, while the addition of jackets builds up another cool look. Easy to understand, studs and earring jackets are available across a wide range of price points. READ MORE…

How Rihanna’s Favorite Jewelry Designer Built an Empire Some designers never intended to be one. This article documents one highly successful jewelry designer’s road to the top. Jacquie Aiche began her designing career as a hobbyist and never considered that she might have a lifetimes work ahead of her for her much sought after designs. Over the years her designs took on a life of their own and eventually she returned to her design work full time, starting in her garage. She is now an “A”  list designer in the celebrity world of Hollywood with clients like Miley Cyrus and Rihanna. So when you think that you can’t become a designer keep her lovely story in mind. She went from a hobbyist housewife to a top designer in the Hollywood world of fashion. This woman’s designs are becoming more and more popular with the celebrity crowd. Now not everyone becomes a famous Hollywood creator of fine jewelry, But anyone who is persistent and works to challenge themselves can have a satisfying experience in the jewelry industry. by Meghan Blalock  Rihanna isn’t hurting for big designer names in her wardrobe, but when it comes to her jewelry collection, one name reigns supreme among them all: Jacquie Aiche. (The pop star’s so obsessed with Aiche’s designs that she even partnered with the designer on a line of jewelry-inspired body art earlier this year.) But RiRi is far from the only celebrity client Aiche counts as a fervent follower; Victoria’s Secret model Behati Prinsloo loves her work, as do Diane Kruger, Kylie Jenner, Miley Cyrus, and countless other stylish ladies. But like many of the career success stories we’ve chronicled here on Who What Wear, Aiche wasn’t always such a household name in the celebrity style world. READ MORE…  Jewelry Designers Resource Center is proud to be affiliated with The Jewelers Resource Bureau

The world jewellery confederation The World Jewellery Federation is an outstanding resource for jewellery designers and jewellers alike, it is both authoritative and informative. They are self described as the United Nations of the jewellery industry established in 1926 it represents the jewellery , gemstone and precious metals industries along with individuals and organizations in these industries, from mine to market. They have developed a code of ethics that is designed to protect the consumer who is dependent on the expertise and integrity of their suppliers. CIBJO has developed a Blue Book system to advance the goal of universal standards and terminology in the jewellery industry. In 2004 they were able to get a German company stop marketing their high quality synthetic diamonds as cultured diamonds to the public a success for the CIBJO Blue Book standards. The Munich court issued a restraining order to that effect. These blue books are living documents and are revised and updated as new information Although these Blue Book standards are voluntary it is recommended that these standards be applied by all persons and companies in all aspects of the jewellery industry from source to final sale in the on the standards set jewellery system. These blue books are living documents and are updated when new information is brought forward. This means that as new treatments for gemstones appear they can have an affect on the standards set forth in these blue books. With books specializing on Diamonds, Gemstones, Pearls, Coral, Precious Metals, and Gem Labs, they have extensive reference materials for anyone looking to seek information and find what factors are applicable to the sector they are working on. CIBJO offers a resource for news in these industries as one of many free source of trends and changes taking place in the jewellery and gemstone world. There are many other resources for the gem and jewelry industry, but this one sets the world standards. As an example many designers, jewelers, and gem traders are affiliated with The Jewelers Resource Bureau a resource of tremendous help to all. But the standards accepted in the world are set are set by CIBJO.

Diamond Cut: Anatomy of a Round Brilliant A perfectly cut diamond is hard to achieve but should always be something strive for. This is a good article on the Brilliant Cut Diamond the Gemological Institute of America the worlds authority on diamonds has offered this for the public. It is well written so that anyone can understand what goes into a cut diamond and apply this knowledge to purchasing gems for your jewelry designs. The more one reads and researches the better choices and be made and it will show in your jewelry designs. The cut of a gemstone is very important to the presentation of the gem in jewelry. The brilliant cut was developed to get maximum light to enter the stone and reflect the brilliance of the piece in at it’s best. I have even he used this brilliant cut on my sapphire designs because it looks so good. It uses more gem weight but displays the gem in a better light than a step cut. A specific set of terms is used to describe parts of a polished diamond. Each part of a diamond makes its own contribution to the diamond’s appearance. In the standard round brilliant, there are 57 or 58 facets. The table facet, usually the largest facet on the diamond, helps gather light from above and either reflects it back to the observer or directs it into the diamond’s interior. The crown facets, consisting of 8 bezels, 8 stars, and 16 upper halves, gather and disperse light to create brightness, fire, and a scintillating pattern of light and dark. The pavilion facets, consisting of 16 lower halves, 8 mains, and an optional culet, reflect the light back through the crown to the viewer’s eye. All of these facets work together creating each diamond’s unique appearance. Average Girdle Diameter The diameter of a round diamond is the distance from one girdle edge to the opposite girdle edge, straight through the center. Because even well-cut round diamonds are never perfectly round, the diameter is measured in several places, recording the minimum (smallest) and maximum (largest) measurements. The average girdle diameter is a calculated value obtained by the following formula, which is then reported to the nearest hundredth of a millimeter (0.01 mm): Average girdle diameter = (minimum diameter + maximum diameter) ÷ 2 This proportion is used in calculating certain percentages such as table size, total depth, crown height, and pavilion depth. READ MORE…

World Jewelry Tool Company | Website 119, BIS Building 1st Floor Maheasak Road, BanRak Bangkok, 10500 Thailand Tel: +66-2-635-9998 email: Teck Thai Group | Website: email: Tel: +66-2-226-0055 Gesswein |  Website 201 Hancock Avenue P.O. Box 3998 Bridgeport, Connecticut 06605-0936 U.S.A. 1-203-366-5400 Fax: 1-203-366-3953 email: Otto Frei | Website 126 2nd St, Oakland CA 94607, USA 1.510.832.0355 1.800.772.3456 email: Zak Jewelry Tools | Website: 55 West 47th Street 2nd floor New York, New York 10036 1-212-768-8122 1-800-369-6424 1-212-764-7847 email: Stuller Jewelry Tools | Website: 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Rio Grande Jewelry Tools | Website: 7500 Bluewater Rd NW Albuquerque, NM 87121 USA 1.800.545.6566 Jewelry Tools | Website: 1521 West 2550 South, Ogden, UT 84401 email:  1-866-453-6147 International Colored Gem Association | Website: Unit No.11, 8th Floor Heng Ngai Jewelry Centre No.4 Hok Yuen Street East Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: 852-2365 9318 email:

Gemological Laboratories American Gemological Laboratories Founded in 1977, and located in the heart of New York’s gem and jewelry district, American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) is an international gemstone testing facility specializing in comprehensive colored gemstone analysis. International Gemological Laboratories IGL Laboratories are respected diamond grading laboratory. We have pioneered the development of the first scientific system used to evaluate how well a diamond has been cut. A diamond’s cut is the most important C of all of the four C’s. EGL Each EGL USA Gemological Report provides a clear, concise view of your stone. So, it’s more than an exceptional document. GIA Established in 1931, GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones, and pearls. A public benefit, nonprofit institute, GIA is the leading source of knowledge, standards, and education in gems and jewelry.

Rough or uncut gemstones Gemstones are sometimes uncut or polished in the creation of custom designed jewelry

Sri Lanka: From Mine to Market Following the GIA travel logs is a great way to learn about the far flung emerging and established gem markets of the world. Sri Lanka is a unique place in the world where many types of gems abound the landscape. The centuries have taught the Sri Lankan gem miner how to take his goods from mine to market with as few steps as possible. In recent years the changes in import export rules for the gemstone industry have helped them expand and bring in large amounts of foreign stones for cutting and processing into jewelry for the world. With the mining, trading, cutting, treatment, jewelry manufacturing, and retail sectors all on fire, the future is looking good. Sri Lanka has massive deposits of a variety of gemstones, The gravels yield sapphire, ruby, cat’s-eye and other chrysoberyls, spinel, garnet, beryl, tourmaline, topaz, quartz, and many other gemstones. The ability of cutters from Sri Lanka to orient a stone for cutting is legendary and among the natural talents of this centuries old trade. Gem cutting skills are well established in this island nation. The color orientation is key to the presentation and light penetration of any gemstone. The natural eye of these stone cutters is a huge asset to the gem markets in Sri Lanka. Still using traditional methods of stone orientation for cutting are still employed in this modern day, this is because it works and needs no changes. These traditions have serve well the gem cutting industry in Sri Lanka and it is slow to change with modern tools and techniques. Gemstone deposits in Sri Lanka are based in gem-bearing gravels called illam. To visit Sri Lanka is to experience one of the great gem sources and trading centers in the world. This country has a rich, almost unparalleled tradition and remains vitally important to the modern gemstone market. Sri Lanka has a true mine-to-market industry, both domestically and for export. Its evolution over the last two decades blends the best of traditional practices with modern technologies and business models. In this field report, we take you on an expedition to this magnificent island and its remarkable mine-to-market industry. An Amazing Island Traveling in Sri Lanka, you realize it is a large island with very diverse environments. Most of the terrain consists of flat or rolling hills, but there are beautiful mountains in the southern central interior. Agriculture is a constant presence as you drive around the country, with intense green rice fields and rubber tree plantations. In Elahera’s rice fields, there are treehouses for agricultural workers to climb into when a herd of wild elephants passes through. In Ratnapura, Elahera, and Balangoda, green rice fields also enclose small pit-mining operations, sometimes covered with V-shaped roofs for a little protection from rain and sun. Gaining elevation, you encounter beautiful tea plantations where it is common to see workers picking tea leaves by hand. Driving along the coast offers views of Sri Lanka’s beautiful coastline and fishing industry. READ MORE… We are proud affiliates of the Jewelers Resource Bureau take a few moments to look at the resources they offer to the jewelry industry

Safe Jewelry Shipping Advice from Jeweler’s Mutual Jewelers Resource Bureau With shipping losses currently affecting several Jewelers Mutual policyholders-with recent claims attributed to address errors, lack of communication between shipper and recipient and improper packaging–the organization has issued important precautionary measures. 1. Place merchandise in a medium-sized cardboard box and seal with tape. Label this box with your return address (using non-jewelry-related words) and the tracking number. This will serve as identification if the outside container or mailing label is destroyed in transit. 2. Place this box in a strong, oversized shipping box (i.e., 12 inches by 12 inches by four inches). If possible, use a packaging box from a delivery service. If you do not have a box from a delivery service, disguise your shipment in a sturdy box from a different product. Never use an envelope or a box marked with any jewelry-related words. Also avoid using old boxes that lose strength. 3. To prevent the inner box from rattling, tape or glue it to the shipping box. Fill the remainder of the shipping box with packing material to help protect it during transit. Do not use jewelry catalogs or ads. 4. Seal the shipping box with reinforced mailing tape, pressure-sensitive shipping tape, tamper-evident tape or stamp over the tape so that any tampering is evident. Do not use string, masking tape or cellophane tape to seal the box. 5. Confirm and double-check the correct address. 6. Address the package clearly. Do not indicate that the package is coming from or going to a jewelry-related business. Use a name that does not contain jewelry terms and do not use abbreviations that could be misunderstood. Change the name regularly. Disguise the return address in a similar fashion. Use the name of a business associate (with their permission), such as your accountant or attorney, who is at a different location, not in a jewelry district or with a prominent jewelry zip code. READ MORE…  

50 Tips To Prevent Jewelry Store Robberies or Minimize the Damage Should They Occur Great information on staying safe in the jewelry industry. Read and learn, even if you think you are safe read it anyway there may be that one tip that saves your life and merchandise one day. JCK Magazine is an industry authority, they offer a tremendous resource to anyone with interest in gems and jewelry. Encountering an armed robber is one of the scariest things a jeweler can experience, but experts say there are certain ­measures you can take to prevent a robbery, or to minimize the damage should one take place, as well as advice you should ­follow during and after an encounter that will help keep you safe. These tips come from the Jewelers’ Security Alliance, insurance ­professionals, retailers, and other industry experts. BEFORE 1. Vary your route to and from the store and keep an eye on your rearview mirror to make sure you’re not being followed. 2. Don’t open or close the store alone. While one employee locks or unlocks the door, a second employee should watch from a safe distance that still gives a good view of the door. The second person also should have a mobile phone to call the police if the coworker is confronted. 3. Observe the surroundings of the store when you arrive. If a person or car is loitering by the building, or if doors or windows appear open or tampered with, stay out of sight and call police. Learn More…

Will Gem and Colored Diamond Markets Crash? The colored gem and diamond markets have been doing well over the past few years yet many other aspects of the gem economy are troubling The Gemstone Forecaster shows markets slowing in the fall of 2015. Many of the top producers like Burma (Myanmar) show spectacular new goods but demand has slowed dramatically in recent months. The markets have been called a bubble by some, but I wonder if it is a bubble at all in regards to colored diamonds and gems. With the Chinese buyers drying up after years of rampant purchasing of gems this has had an affect across the trade. Many factors are at play of course in this high stakes game of chance, the gems of Mozambique are entering the colored stone markets like never before. The worlds largest ruby deposits are in this African nation. Violence and politics are negatively affecting the development of this resource. by Robert Genis The colored diamond and precious gemstone markets have been top performing assets for over a decade. However, many markets have now been hit hard or even topped. US stock markets are weak and emerging markets are crashing. Many commodities-including white diamonds, gold and silver have sunk in the face of a strong dollar. In the US, with a few exceptions, the residential real estate market never came roaring back despite low interest rates. The reason colored diamonds and certain unheated precious gemstones (primarily from Burma) continue to increase makes sense. They are truly rare, fun to own, can be owned privately, are easily stored, and have an enviable record of appreciation. Every substantial portfolio should have a small portion dedicated to these assets.  READ MORE…

Are Some Gems Only Half Precious? Semi precious is a misrepresentation of the values involved in gemstones other than the big 4 diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. There are so called semi precious stone calling for higher prices that even diamonds are going for. The rarity and opening of new markets for colored stones, along with designers discovering new fashion trendy colors in what used to be obscure unknown gemstones. Many new designers look at the semi precious classification as being inferior in quality and value. That is not the situation these days with new trends emerging annually with new colors and stones most folks never heard of a short time ago. New and aspiring jewelry designers can find some real gems in the many hundreds of semi precious group of stones. There are great deals to be had but the market for certain stones can be very volatile indeed. One needs to watch the trends for colors that they may be able to get at a bargain now but is soon to be in much higher demand The gemstone business in the past was dominated by the “big three,” ruby, emerald, and sapphire. These gemstones have always been the most popular and the market for these stones is different than the market for other gemstones in many ways. When other gemstone varieties began to be popular in jewelry, the jewelry industry got tired of calling them “colored gemstones other than ruby, emerald and sapphire.” People needed a term to distinguish these other gems from the big three, since all of them can be called colored gemstones. Unfortunately, the term they made up was “semi-precious” since the big three were often called precious stones, probably from the French “pierres precieuse.” Unfortunately the French terminology was not followed for the other stones or they would be known as “fine gemstones,” which is much better than that semi word. READ MORE…

Jewelry news Resources for the latest jewelry news are very good places to find jewelry design trends and changes in the jewellery markets. See the sources below that we have used over the years. National Jeweler is one resource where one can find the very latest in Jewelry news, the stories below are just an example of what a good source of information the National Jeweler is to the jewelry industry. Take a few moments to review the article and the website you may find more information about jewelry design than you knew was available. The companies mentioned below are also valuable resources for jewelry design inspirations and ideas. By Hannah Connorton October 30, 2015 The big story of the week was the news that the GIA has invalidated grading reports for 1,042 diamonds after discovering two now-former employees of TCS, the contractor that supports its grading information database, had gained unauthorized access to the database and altered the reports. Tiffany & Co. also made headlines, first announcing it was partnering with another retailer to create a capsule collection inspired by designs in the brand’s Blue Book from the 1970s. (more…)

The jewelry of the Marcos era in the Philippines is being appraised by by a premiere auction house. The legacy of the Marcos years continues to amaze the world for its opulence and excesses. MANILA, Philippines — The Philippine government is appraising the dazzling jewelry collection seized three decades ago from Imelda Marcos, the former first lady famous for her massive stash of shoes, as it decides what to do with the jewels one expert compared to those owned by royalty. The jewelry was seized when dictator Ferdinand Marcos and his family fled to Hawaii in 1986 following a popular revolt that ended his two decades in power. The pieces include a barrel-shaped diamond worth at least $5 million and a Cartier diamond tiara that’s likely multiple times more valuable than the previous estimate of $30,000 to $50,000. Read More…

Gem Market Pulse – March 2016 Gem markets continue to be volatile in many areas, the financing industry that supports the gem and jewelry industries are moving from the sector more and more. The challenges that the gem traders face are numerous and fluid. This article accents these issues facing the markets such as fair trade and new resources for bringing new goods to market. The newly offered deep rich purple garnets from exotic locations like Mozambique, Malawi, and Tanzania came around during the recent Tucson gem show. The prices were good and the quality was awesome from all I have read and heard. Amateur jewelry designers would be well served to pay attention to new colors and sources for quality colored stones, they often have a buzz attached to them and can be sold much quicker when mounted in a unique setting. Another attraction is that the value can rise quickly and popularity can soar, this all adds to the buzz that a designer can transfer to their new designs following trendy gem sales. The Jewelry Industry Summit The goal is to reach consensus on a shared vision for responsible sourcing that works for all sectors of the industry – while meeting consumer demand for ethical products…featured gem Purple Garnet The gem and jewelry business has a large, multifaceted structure that functions at different levels often without any communications between participants from the various sectors. These sectors include but are not limited to mining, cutting, jewelry manufacturing, wholesale and retail. They can operate quite differently between diamond and colored stones industries. Both the colored stone and diamond sectors are dependent on a direct relationship with investors and banks and yet traditional lenders having been moving away from the gem and jewelry trade to develop business in other industries. Additional influential factors affecting the gem trade are government bodies, consumer rights groups and NGO’s. An industry wide meeting of representatives from all sectors of the gem and jewelry trade to address the increasing number of issues that currently facing the gem trade is overdue. Fortunately, a group of gem and jewelry professionals has taken the initiative to facilitate just such a meeting. READ MORE… Look for more free resources at Jewelry Designers Resource Center We are proudly affiliated with The Jewelers resource Bureau…

Lapidary supplies and Equipment Inland’s lapidary equipment, diamond tools, and lapidary supplies are available to lapidary hobbyists and rockhounds all over the world. Our line of lapidary equipment includes diamond band saws and trim saws, plus diamond grinders and flat lap machines, – all designed specifically for use on rocks and minerals. Ameritool offers the highest quality lapidary and glass working machines.  Our trim saws and grinders set the industry standards for quality and design.  Our equipment is used by lapidary, glass, jewelry and beading artists around the world. Rio Grande, At Rio, we believe in jewelers. In the digital age, perhaps this is a radical idea. But we remain committed to supporting anyone who has ever picked up a piece of metal and made something wearable. Delta One Lapidary, we can supply your lapidary equipment, lapidary tools, rock hounding tools, and jewelry tools and equipment needs. Diamond Pacific is one of the major manufacturers of lapidary equipment for the rockhound hobbyist, professional gemcutter and jeweler, and for a variety of commercial uses, from deburring metal parts to testing geological specimens and concrete for highways.

Gemstone industry in Nigeria In recent times the hap hazard approach to gemstone sourcing in Nigeria has began to organized and mechanized mining is now beginning to take hold and the market is responding well to this change. Nigeria has become a major gemstone supplier in the past few decades. Now with the markets opening up to this source of colored gem industry is getting government support and organizing assistance. Tourmaline, Spessartite, Rubellite, Mambilla Sapphire, and even Emerald are all finding their way into the jewelry markets in Thailand for processing  and manufacturing. “Gemstone exports from Nigeria have always been somewhat poorly organized, and mainly of rough stones. Recently, however, there has been an attempt to improve mining capacity, to make exporting less cumbersome and transparent, and to encourage value addition for the country’s rough gemstones. These are the steps that a World Bank-assisted project has proposed.” Read More… The gemstones coming out of Nigeria are of high quality and are examples of how an emerging market can make real contributions to the worlds gemstone industry. We are looking forward to seeing more from this relatively new contributor to the worlds gemstone and jewelry industry…

GIA is urging the return of 175 diamonds for re examination due to a recent hacking attack on their data base. The two hackers appear to have operated between November of 2014 and October 2015. GIA is offering a no cost re-confirmation of any reports issued during this period of time. Again it demonstrates GIA commitment to the integrity of the diamond market. The article in the National Jeweler is a poignant reminder of the issues facing the system in the electronic age. December 01, 2015 Carlsbad, Calif.–Only 175 of the 1,042 diamonds with a grading report that was invalidated after two individuals hacked into Gemological Institute of America’s grading information database earlier this year have been returned to the lab for reexamination. To address the trade’s concerns and to emphasize the importance of all the diamonds and their reports being returned, the GIA announced last week that it is offering a no-cost confirmation service for any diamond grading report that was issued by the lab between November 2014 and October 2015. Read More…

JNA is a top magazine in the jewelry industry offering news and information on the jewelry trade industry, they track trends and changes in the industry and have a huge amount of information for those looking to track sales, trends and new design techniques Celebrating its fifth anniversary next year, the JNA Awards, the jewellery and gemstone industry’s premier platform for recognising innovative and high-achieving individuals and enterprises, has announced changes to its award categories in 2016. The organiser of the event, JNA (Jewellery News Asia), has made adjustments to a few award categories to encourage greater participation from more regions and, at the same time, consolidate some categories that are judged against a similar set of criteria. In 2016, the JNA Awards will have 11 categories, including the Lifetime Achievement Award – the recipient of which will be selected by the organiser. Read More…

Jewelry Designer Margot McKinney Draws Inspiration From the Desert Here is a great example of a jewelry designer who thinks out of the box, her simple and at the same time complex designs are inspired by the desert. Here bold designs are not for the meek, they are intended to make a statement an entrance factor so to speak, her designs get noticed. This is a way for any designer to build a name for themselves, find what inspires your and your designs and work to create a unique concept for that. One does not have to be a top line designer to apply these techniques to grow interest in their designs. Jewelry designers of all levels and skill sets can make their niche in the jewelry industry by simply finding what inspires them to challenge their limits. Look at mother nature for design ideas, when you slice open and piece of fruit try slicing it at an angle and look at the pattern it creates. Take a leaf from a tree add it to the background, mix and match natures wonder it is a super easy way to create concepts and then put your twist on them. Look at gemstones as part of mother natures pallet and dont apply limits to where and how to employ them. In other words don’t be limited by conventional thinking try new things. You do not have to be a designer for Neiman Marcus or recognized in Beverly Hills just get out and try it will come to you. Jeweler Margot McKinney’s statement pieces — think bold cuffs and drop earrings adorned with orange and yellow sapphires, rubies and white diamonds — are not for the faint of heart, but rather for the woman looking to make an entrance. Need to punch up your ensemble for the next red carpet or black tie function? Look no further. Prior to her Tuesday evening fete at Neiman Marcus, Beverly Hills, where the designer will show off some of her most red-carpet worthy gems to stylists, Pret-a-Reporter sat down with the Australian designer to chat about her family business, her inspiration and her dream Hollywood client. Margot McKinney: I find travel to be the most inspiring of activities. To take in sights and sounds, new surroundings, people and activity is immensely invigorating to me. I travel for well over half the year buying gems, visiting workrooms around the world and of course selling my jewelry. I am always at my most creative after our summer holiday, which we spend at a beautiful beach in Queensland, close to where we live. The rambling house right on the beach is the perfect place to recreate and the sound of the rolling waves and the gentle swish of the breeze through the palm trees seems to stay with me for months afterwards. It is after this restorative holiday that my mind seems to overflow with new ideas for creations. READ MORE…

Atlanta police, Crime Stoppers seek man in $16K jewelry theft Jewelry safety is always an issue I make it a point to point out these incidents to remind everyone there are always those who would take advantage of people in the jewelry industry. Please pass this issue on to your circle of contacts. Jewelry designers and jewelers are always a target for thieves and scammers. Vigilance and constant reminders help keep this threat in check. Tuesday, Jan. 19, 2016 Atlanta police and Crime Stoppers on Tuesday asked for the public’s help identifying a man who allegedly stole more than $16,000 worth of jewelry during the Scott Antique Market show at the Atlanta Expo Center. An off-duty Atlanta police officer working an extra job at the center was notified of the theft, which occurred about 10:45 a.m. Jan. 9. Diamonds & Such jewelry owner Bobby Steverson told the officer he and his staff members were in a booth at the show when they noticed four necklaces were missing from a display case, police said. Atlanta police, Crime Stoppers seek man in $16K jewelry theft photo Atlanta police and Crime Stoppers are looking for a man suspected of stealing more than $16,000 worth of necklaces at the Scott Antique Market show. (Credit: Atlanta Police Department) Surveillance video shows a black man looking at the display cases at the end of the booth. The suspect is seen leaning over the tables as if examining jewelry, but is then seen opening the case, taking the bottom row of necklaces, hiding them inside his coat and leaving.  All five of Steverson’s employees were occupied either in the center or far end of the booth at the time of the theft, police said. An 18-karat gold necklace valued at $8,860.25 was taken. Three other necklaces — one worth about $3,200 and two others worth about $2,000 each — were also stolen. READ MORE…

Diamond Sales Light Up Solid Season for Jewelers The early slowness of sales of seasonal sales turned out to be just a bump in the road. Diamond sales for the holiday season were stronger than expected and up by double digits overall. A few retailers showed minor dips in sales, but overall retail jewelry sales were better across the board. Other stones like Blue Zircon came into play this season as well. They have been gaining popularity and growing desire from the buying public, as well as the growth in sales for Paraiba tourmaline’s which are one of the new trending gems in the fashion industry. Marketing efforts have paid off however these efforts never end and continue to be a big part of sales efforts for most designers and jewelers. The markets have been somewhat nervous for a time but seem to be resilient and are making an effort to stabilize to some degree. Along with better diamond sale increased interest in colored gems has been seen as a trend for the coming 2016 sales season. Interest in Blue Sapphire and Morganite have been influenced by fashion designers and are expected to continue to see greater sales. The industry had a few jitters coming into the holiday season, but overall it appears better than expected particularly for diamonds and designer lines. After surveying nearly two dozen jewelers, JCK found that few saw declines, and even those whose sales dropped didn’t have huge falls. But quite a few said sales were flat. Among the trends we found this year: This was a last-minute nail-biting season, but in the end shoppers came through.  As usual, jewelers griped that the weather hurt sales but this year the problem was good weather, as unseasonably warm temperatures dampened the holiday mood. Gemstones and silver also did well, although JCK heard less about charm brands than in past years.READ MORE… What is the Jewelers Resource Bureau?

Understanding everything about Blue Zircon gemstones Among one of the most misunderstood gems is the zircon because the general public confuses it with the synthetic stone called Cubic Zirconia (CZ). Zircon is a natural valuable gemstone that comes in a variety of shades and colors, stretching from colorless to Bright blues, brilliant reds, greens and yellows all find their way to jewelry designers. Places that produce gem quality Zircons are Afghanistan, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Burma (Myanmar), and the Ural Mountains. Common Brown Zircons can be heat treated to create clear colorless and blue zircons for the gem and jewelry markets. Some colorless stones are used as diamond substitutes, blue, yellow and green zircon gems show up in many high quality jewelry designs. Although not popular in some markets these stones are very collectible and worth taking the time to learn about so you can make an informed purchase of a high quality gem for your designs or collection. Blue – Zircon in Jewellery Zircons are especially unique due to how they grow when forming into a crystal. They have an attractive fire to them that works well when creating gemstones for jewellery. You can purchase these gemstones loose or crafted into jewellery both. We recently spoke to Patricia Brady at Gemsncoins and asked her what she thought of the Blue Zircons they offer to buyers from all around the world. “Wholesale Blue Zircons are rare due to the growth of the crystal, which grows in a twinning shape. Rather like two pyramids linked together at the base. In order to cut these beautiful shapes, the rough gems have to be a fine quality. These Cambodian Blue Zircons have the trademark double refractiveness of zircons, which is even seen on the product images we offer. Double refraction is when the light enters through the pavilion, hits the facets and splits into two rays. Then these rays of light bounce back hitting your eyes with double the sparkle of other gemstones, even diamonds. That’s the secret of these Blue Zircons. Their extra sparkle making them look like blue diamonds at a fraction of the cost, as a much more rarer gemstone than diamonds” READ MORE…

The Italian luxury Jewelry Brand Repossi has a new investor in the LVMH who has also acquired the Bulgari Brand, and owns a number of other luxury brands. The Repossi brand has only two stores one in Paris and one in Monte Carlo. This new move is designed to develop distribution worldwide. The brand is available in 90 retailers around the world. This seems to be an effort to expand throughout the jewelry retail world.  The jewelry industry is tightly intertwined with the fashion trends and this move will be a big boost to the brand name Repossi… “The LVMH Group announced Monday that it will take a minority stake in luxury jewelry brand Repossi. The Italian company is led by Artistic and Creative Director Gaia Repossi, who took the lead at the company her great grandfather founded in 2007, at only 21 years old.” Under the direction of her father, Alberto Repossi, the brand opened its only two stores so far in Monte Carlo in 1977 and Paris in 1985. The line is available at about 90 retailers worldwide, including Barneys and Opening Ceremony in the U.S. The size of the investment was not disclosed” Read More… 

Chrysalis targets new jewellery category Children’s jewellery is a growing market with designers and producers alike. The possibilities within this niche market are expansive and exciting. The ever changing environment of children’s jewellery design is dynamic and challenging. But when a children’s design or style catches on with the children hold on because rocketing sales booms and busts are coming. Because just like all other jewellery customers they are fickle and sometimes have short attention spans. This means that the child market is extremely challenging and wrought with pitfalls. But if you get in for the long run and stay abreast with the trends then it can be a very successful market for those with the vision needed. Posted November 30, 2015 | By Stephanie Chan | Journalist The local distributor for Chrysalis has announced the launch date of the UK jewellery brand’s first children’s collection, which could open up a new market for Australian retailers. Chrysalis, which specialises in stackable charm bangles, will launch the new range of children’s jewellery known as the Wishes collection next year. Designed by Willow Maine, the eight-year-old daughter of Chrysalis’ two co-founders, David and Andrea Maine, it was said to have been inspired by “Willow’s favourite things”. The new line features 12 colourful enamelled bangles and necklaces that target a younger demographic by incorporating childhood motifs, such as cupcakes, princesses, mermaids and ice cream. The in-store marketing material also features children’s themes; for example, one of the jewellery displays offered is shaped like a teddy bear. READ MORE…

Chicago-Area Jeweler Delivers Using a Drone I suppose this is a sign of things to come, more and more technology for drone delivery is appearing in the marketplaces of the world. Here is a local company innovative in the way they work on customer service. It was a simple delivery but it was also their first delivery by drone. As the technology develops I think it will eventually become more common and even expected by clients. This way of conducting business is in it’s earliest stages but shows tremendous potential in many industries and applications. Drones are new in the jewelers world but at least one is attempting to develop a new means of delivering satisfaction to their clientele. I don’t see this as an instant phenomena, but over time it will likely find it;’s niche in the jewelry market. December 09, 2015 Distinctive Gold Jewelry customer Paula receiving her anniversary gift, an 18-karat gold Concord watch, on the front lawn of her suburban Chicago home back in September. DGJ deployed a drone to bring her the gift, a first for the store. Frankfort, Ill.–Ever since the notion of delivering goods via drone hit the news, jeweler Tony D’Ortenzio wanted to get in on the action. His dream was to give one couple a memorable engagement by flying the ring in mid-proposal. That hasn’t happened yet but, thanks to the help of a longtime sales associate and a local photographer, the store did pull off the drone delivery of a $10,000 watch, a tremendous feat for an independent retailer in an industry notorious for being behind the times. D’Ortenzio owns Distinctive Gold Jewelry (known as DGJ) with his brother Joe. The store, which has been in the family for more than 40 years, has had three Chicagoland locations and now is in Frankfort, a southwest suburb. READ MORE…

Training video on how to properly repair a jewelry hinge

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A 23.16ct rough pink diamond has been uncovered in Tanzania, one of many large rough diamonds found there recently.by Petra Diamonds. This is one of a series of incredible finds in recent months. The color of this rough is wonderful and it should cut into a spectacular finished piece. Tanzania has produced other large rough one is the second largest rough diamond ever discovered at 1111ct. More is expected to be produced from the region with many large pieces coming from the region in recent months, with some over 300cts. National Jeweler articles are a good source of news for diamond enthusiasts. I would love to see the finished pieces after cutting.. London–The large diamond finds continue, with mining company Petra Diamonds Ltd. recovering a 23.16-carat pink and Lucara coming up big again with two more exceptional stones. The pink diamond, which Petra said has “exceptional color and clarity,” is the company’s most significant recovery to date from its Williamson mine, which is located in Tanzania. Petra said it will offer it for sale by appointment in Antwerp as part of its December tender. Read More…

12 Jewelry Trends for 2016 Each year predictions of new trends in jewelry design emerge, although not always accurate they do offer good insight into the markets up and coming trends in colors and design. The fashion industry does influence the color and design trends in both gemstones and jewelry.  Vintage designs are making a comeback in some jewelry markets, they are also influence modern design variations of classic designs from the past. This recycling of design concepts is bringing new designers into the jewelry business. Welcome to another year of jewelry predictions! This post marks the fifth year for our list of buying guidelines based on red carpet jewelry trends, runway fashions, and industry-specific jewelry and gemstone offerings. And with 45,345 page views—a drop of 0.04 percent over last year—we thank you for the continued support of clicks and shares. Best wishes for a robust year of  sales in 2016. READ MORE…  Top trending gemstones in the 2015 market were the perennial Blue Sapphire but is was edged out by Morganite in a pressurizing rise to fame, also included where Opal, and Tourmaline. Diamonds as always are in the favorites but colored stones have surged forth in recent years. The fashion industry has affected this positive trend to subtle colors like in Morganite, as well as the brilliance of the Sapphires they use as accents to their designs. The types of jewelry styles that have trends is varied as well, some of the favorites have been chokers, Asymmetric stone settings on rings and new very black Rhodium designs with white stones. New interest in Eco friendly and ethically mines gemstones is another factor in driving recent jewelry trends. Fancier gem cuts are showing up with new and old designers. Special cut gems have a new popularity coming along in this past few months. Take a few moments to look at The Jewelers Resource Bureau as a source of support in the design and making of jewelry.